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Re: idle problem  Matthew Cordes
 Jun 17, 2001 14:56 PDT 
Hi,
I fixed it, the "split retainer" as you called it was bent so the brake
cable couldn't fit through its grooves and I was afraid to widen it.
Eventually I was brave enough to do so and the rest went together pretty
easily.
I have another question though:
My bike is still idling very poorly. If I stop at a red light or stop
sign I have about 10 seconds before the engine stops. I can prolong it
by giving it a little gas periodically while waiting, but it is still
problematic.
I have adjusted the idle screw, replaced the carb with a new one, cleaned
the gas tank (it is not rusty). Unless you advice otherwise I'm tackling
the exhaust system next. Anyone have any other ideas? The engine is also
very loud and sometimes has a metallic scratching sound at low speed. At
high speed it is fine. Is this a symptom someone is familiar with?
-matt
On Sun, Jun 17, 2001 at 04:05:27AM +0000, Donald Ruggles wrote:
 
Matthew Cordes wrote:
 Hello all..
Can anyone explain (or point me to an online explanation of) the process
of
changing a brake handle? The brake itself and the cable are fine, the
front
brake handle was broken.
In case it matters, I have a 1980 Puch Magnum II and the pieces I have
are:
* brake handle
* bolt + nut
* zany spring
* metal cylinder split into two pieces at the end
I'm just having a hard time visualizing how everything fits into place.
-matt
Hi,Matt!Have you broken the brake handle?(usually shiny chrome lever) Or
did you break the housing it fits into?(right side is usually throttle
control.) Usually you just unscrew the adjuster which your cable end
will fit into,put the bare cable wire thru the housing and into the new
lever,push the split retainer thru the hole sandwiching the bare cable
into the retainer's groove,and push the retainer on into the hole on the
other side until the head of the retainer is flush on the lever.I always
spread the split in the retainer a little to discourage it from popping
out.Then you just put the longitudinally grooved adjuster screw over the
bare cable protruding from the housing,and screw it in a little.You'll
probably need some slack from the cable down at the wheel,so what I do
is either loosen the brake cable or affix the actuator arm in the
applied brake position to obtain the necessary slack(visegrips and duct
tape will hold it applied at the wheel.When you are physically hooked
up,just seat the cable housing end into the adjuster screw and release
the vise grips and tape at the wheel.You can now see how much adjustment
you'll need.One thing though.Squeeze fairly hard on the lever first to
set and stretch all connections so you only have to adjust one
time.Chances are it will be a little too tight because the adjuster
screw is not turned in far enough.You may not have to adjust at the
wheel at all.You don't want any brake rubbing going on,but just have the
adjustment where the slight pull on the lever will start to engage the
brake.MAKE SURE when you're done that the front wheel spins freely when
you release the lever or you'll lose a lot of power and speed.BYE!
Don-ohio
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